Day 7 Jun24

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Day 7

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Bourg – Pauillac – Bordeaux

7:30 am visit another island today – Ile de Margaux
The buffet choices change each day and there is always a surprise. Of course some things never change – great specialty coffee, good breads and cheeses, yogurt and fruit – always there. How is it that we are always so ravenous every morning?

We’ve start to cruise toward Ile de Margaux to visit the vineyard and taste the wines of the Domaine de Margaux. Margaux island, part of an archipelago Gironde – 8 islands located in the heart of the estuary –  with an area of 25 hectares, is one of the smaller islands. All the islands were formed from the accumulation of alluvial fluvial and marine sands.

BourgPauillacBordeaux2  38 miles/64 km

10 am on Ile de Margaux island
Exiting onto a pontoon dock, we follow a wooden walkway leading to the higher elevation where a pale yellow stone and red brick building dominates among 14 hectares of vines. Lionel de Mecquenem and his dogs are waiting. He’s been vineyard manager for 27 years and can not imagine living anywhere else. The top of the earthen dam surrounding the island is a walking path planted with over 300 fruit trees. It’s about a mile to circle around. The 5 grape varieties of the Medoc (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc) are grown and do very well in the island’s micro-climate. A tasting room is under construction, obvious when we pass into the aging cellar through a partially framed doorway. The oldest winemaking techniques are used here –  concrete vats are still in use. No fertilizers or pesticides are used on the vines – all natural. During our vertical tasting we walk through the cellar to check out the wine library and its bottles dated in the ‘70’s. Our congenial host loves what he does. With his wife they’ve raised three children on the island and William, the oldest son, was the young man we met yesterday at Patiras. Locally it is said that the Gironde runs in their blood. We return to the barge with a dozen bottles of Domaine de Margaux wine.

11:30 am navigate and cruise to Pauilliac/Lamarque go 
We lunch while the barge cruises on.

12:30 pm lunch Mirabelle dining room
Menu
crab soufflé
lamb filet rosemary and garlic confit forest trim
pear tartlets
wines: • Bordeaux Blanc – Château Marac ‘Classique” • Margaux – Biason d’Issan

2 pm visit Chateaux Prieure-Lichine and tour Medoc vineyards go
Our big bus expertly navigates the narrow, 2-lane country roads. The views – a rather flat terrain, great for the bicyclists we occasionally pass, vineyards, pastures, small villages with garden plots. Our destination, Chateau Peieur-Lichine, sits behind a very contemporarily styled tasting room/gift shop. Inside the tasting room a white wine, Le Blanc du Chateau Prieur-Lichine, is offered first. We eventually taste our way through 5 beautiful vintages before heading off to see Alexis Lichine’s 19th century chateau.  It replaced a ruined 15th century Benedictine Priory where grapes were grown for the altar along side vegetables. Lichine was famous for his promotion of varietal labeling of wine, books and lectures. His Wines of France, (1951), Guide to Wines and Vineyards of France and an Encyclopedia of Wines and Spirits (1967) introduced Americans to wine. Some called him the “Pope of Wine”.

The rural charm here is enhanced by many flowers, manicured lawns, a circular driveway, a swimming pool, an old well, and a collection of decorative iron vat doors dating back to the 1700’s mounted on a exterior showcase wall. Very impressive! A visit to the aging rooms and wine library is no less so.

Touring Medoc vineyards brings to life every French châteaux photograph you’ve ever seen. We pass by Lafite, Mouton-Rothschild, Pontet-Canet, Latour and so many others. In reality they are grander than their images. Although we don’t understand the culture in which such extravagance existed, seeing these buildings either close-up or at a distance fills us with admiration for their beauty and the settings. We make an unscheduled stop at Madmoiselle de Margaux to taste the Sarments du Medoc and their other chocolate goodies. In the small well-designed showroom  a chatty young woman in an orchestrated presentation shows us the line and has us taste every product. Such torture! The chocolate factory, behind the showroom, large and seriously industrial looking, is closed to the public. Time to go, chocolate in hand. Who could resist? Not us.

6 pm navigate and cruise Pauiliac to Bordeaux
Settled back home on the barge, we all relax over snacks and aperitifs of various sorts. On to the big time – Bordeaux – to overnight before seeing the city tomorrow. We come into the river at days end and the city lights have not come on yet. City so lovely from the water. Buildings lining the waterfront seem so close. Other vessels pass by. Ahead is the new bridge – bright white in this light. Everyone out on deck taking it all in. Glorious.

7:30 pm dinner Mirabelle dining room
Menu
foie gras and fig sauce
small stuffed vegetables
cheeses: Valancay, Petit Livarot
strawberry cakes
wines: • Cotes de Gascogne – Domaine Guillerman ‘Columbar Uni Blanc’ • Lalande de Pomerol – Clos L’Hermitage • Champagne

evening anchored Bordeaux
The festive dinner, with celebrations of a birthday and an anniversary, is very festive. The evening is clear and warm. Bordeaux waterfront now fully lighted up – all the important historical buildings, the bridges, promenade, the fountains – all aglow. All across the water lights reflect on the quiet river. How really Fab! Glorious redux.

Photos
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