Day 8

Bio-Market, Bordeux history tour – Cadillac

7:30 – 9:30 am breakfast
One by one couples emerge from their cabins and head for the breakfast buffet, choose their foods, and join an open table. Its at table exchanges we get to know people who days ago were complete strangers and who now, with a shared experience, are becoming friends.

9:30 am bio market and shopping in Bordeaux
Our barge docked alongside the promenade across from the Port Cailhau (medieval gate), just above the Pont-de-Pierre (first bridge built over the river). We cross the promenade and the street, entering the city through the old gate. Following behind Jean-Michel we’re into an old but not touristy part of the city and we’ve not been here on our previous few days in Bordeaux. There are narrow cobblestone streets, smaller stone buildings, store fronts with housing above. This quarter of the city is where “the people” live. Seems we are in an Arabic neighborhood – given the signage, people’s attire and product displays in the shop windows. We reach the indoor “bio-market” which is so large it spills out onto the sidewalks. With a population of 60 million, France is one of the largest food markets in Europe and a leader in developing and labeling of organic products. The “AB” logo, property of the French Ministry of Agriculture, assures consumers of “Biologique” authenticity.

We’re early, it isn’t crowded yet and we walk easily among the booths to see the culinary treasures on display. There’s a coffee booth with 12 types of imported beans, local cheeses never seen before, an olive bar with 20 choices, another for anchovies prepared in different styles, 5 or 6 types of hummus, tapenade, pulpo, preserved lemons and peppers, 37 whole and freshly ground spices, 10 styles of freshly made pasta, many flower booths filled with colorful blossoms, poultry, meats, charcuterie, whole fish – at least 20 different varieties, shell fish, snails, and every local vegetable and fruit in season. Merchants mostly ignore us – probably because we are obviously tourists and unlikely to purchase. How right they are! If you’re bothered by sensory overload this visit just might just put you over the edge.

  19 miles/30 km

11 am enjoy bistro visit
As previously agreed we reconvene at a very small bistro within the Marche des Capucins market – “Chez Jean-Mi” for a tasting of the famous oysters from the Bay of Arcachon, one of Europe’s premier locations for this shellfish. They are served raw, on the half shell, with a lemon quarter. Oysters only look tough superficially in their shell fortresses but inside is contained a most delicate and delicious mollusk. A chilled bottle of Cremont de Bordeaux appears to accompany the oysters. Our party completely fills the bistro’s three small tables but we’re welcome to sit and enjoy so long as we continue eating and drinking…which we do for an extended period…with lots of jokes and laughter.

Retracing our steps to return to the barge we discover the waterfront promenade has been transformed into a temporary Flea Market. Dolls, kitchen gadgets, tablecloths, tools, hats, records, clothes, bic-a-brac, books, shoes, furniture – all previously owned are seeking new homes. Lots of shoppers examine and bargain with some deals going down.

12:30 pm lunch Mirabelle dining room
We’ll be wine tasting before and during our lunch. A winery representative has brought some of his client’s vintages for us to try. He’s animated with lightly accented English as he describes each wine’s flavor profile and blend. This nicely accompanies our lovely fish, not intrusive at all.
Menu: tabbouleh with herbs
salmon paupiette
rice with three flavors
pineapple surprise
wines: • Cotes de Blaye – Château Lacaussade St. Martin  • Cru Bourgeois du Medoc – Château Fleur Lamotte

2:30 pm Escorted Historical Tour of Bordeaux
Our energetic guide meets us at the barge before leading us into the central city to see some of the architecture that has earned Bordeaux a World Heritage designation. In fact, Baron Haussmann, a long-time prefect of Bordeaux, used Bordeaux’s 18th-century big-scale rebuilding as a model when asked by Emperor Napoleon III to transform a quasi-medieval Paris into a “modern” capital that would make France proud.

We walk past the Place de la Bourse Place du Parlement to the Saint-André Cathedral (consecrated by Pope Urban II in 1096). This Cathedral is part of the World Heritage Sites of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France. While most of the original Romanesque church is gone, an original wall in the nave remains. St. Andrew was one of the 12 disciples. This was the first cathedral in the world dedicated to him. The beautiful bell tower, Tour Pey-Berland, built between 1440 and 1450 was not attached to the Cathedral. The massive, quadrangular gothic tower stands separately due to concerns that vibrations from the ringing bells could endanger the Cathedral. Our Lady of Aquitane statue tops the belfry. Many buildings are being cleaned and restored, including this edifice. In 1999 previously unknown funerary paintings were discovered in St. Anne’s Chapel. Many treasures remain to be discovered.

The Rue Sainte-Catherine is a 1.2 km long pedestrian street and Bordeaux’s main shopping street. It follows a North-South axis linking the Place de la Comédie with the Grand Theatre at the Place de la Victoire. At the top of the street is one of the entrances to the Galerie Bordelaise, a shopping mall opened in 1834. Our guide introduces us to a number of the city’s culinary specialties including pastries, chocolates, and cheese. We think about stopping at the sidewalk café in front of the Grand Hotel but there are no seats. Across from us is the Grande Theatre de Bordeaux. Conceived as a temple of Arts and Light, its neo-classical facade has a portico of 12 Corinthian style colossal columns supporting an entablature on which stand 12 statues.These sculptures represent the 9 Muses and 3 goddesses (Juno, Venus and Minerva). Truly a beautiful site.

We end at Esplanade des Quinconces, Europe’s largest square, on way to the Monument aux Girondins. Built in the 20th Century to commemorate the Girondists, most militant of France’s Legislative Assembly during the French Revolution. They were executed on orders of a Revolutionary leader and considered to be martyrs. The memorial is large, dramatic, quite spectacular. Its broad base is flanked by 2 ponds, fountains, decorated with life sized horses and bronze groups, surmounted by a tall column which culminates at 54 meters with bronze statue of Freedom/Liberty breaking its chains. Getting this built is a convoluted tale of civic disagreement, design contests, and lack of funds. No time to see Basilica of St-Seurin, a church built in the 6th century on the site of paleochristian necropolis, or the Museum of the Aquitane. Clearly we need another trip.

7:30 pm dinner Mirabelle dining room
Menu: endive salad with citrus
filet of beef with pepper crust and duo purees
cheeses: Chaource, Cantal
double chocolate mousse
wines: • Clairet – Château Lisennes • Fronsac – ‘Au coeur de Larriveau’ • Pessac Leognan – Domaine Merlet

evening cruise and navigation – Bordeaux to Cadillac go
Another extraordinary day comes to a close. Glorious weather with deep blue sky and high puffy clouds and just the right temperature. River cruising is a most comfortable way to explore and a delightful way to meet many wonderful and surprising people.